The drains and sewers network of Brussels forms a maze of about 190 miles (300km) of underground tunnels, with construction dating back to 1867. The explorers travel through tunnels of various shapes and structures, reflecting the years of development: stone, brick, then concrete.
At the end of 2006 the water treatment situation in Brussels is far from good. The river Senne is completely covered and flows under the streets of Brussels, beside the main sewer to which it is also linked and acts as an overflow. Outside the city the Senne is considered 'biologically dead'.
The opening of the substantial water treatment station Aquaris in 2007 will improve the situation considerably.
Until then the Senne remains one of the main sources of pollution for the river Escaut and then for the North Sea.
It is a strange world for a sewers-virgin like myself. I was expecting the smell to be awful - yet it is partly hidden by the soapy effluvium, creating a subtle but nonetheless poisonous mix which one can get used to rather quickly.
We followed a North-South axis, from Schaerbeek to downtown Brussels, about 8 miles on a straight line. The air is fresh - near room temperature - yet outside it is a scorching summer's day. The trip back is far from pleasant, especially for our fellow passengers on the bus who have to share the smells of our visit to the sewers.
Eight miles underground. The walk is far from monotonous - we cross the subway, the grand boulevards, service tunnels, main sewers of all shapes and sizes, an multitude of ovoid cross tunnels, the river Senne of course and a couple of dying rats...
Sound background: the road traffic below the Vilvoordelaan echoing in the tunnels (this annoying noise can be stopped using the mini-player below...)
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